I originally wrote this pattern in Dec of 2011. The pattern was a bit crude and without photos. It was also originally just a Google doc. Seemed to be the easiest way to create a pattern at the time. Recently I've stopped using social media. I deleted all of my accounts and have been pretty happy. I don't feel like I'm missing anything. I just feel a bit bored...
I've always wanted to blog. While I'm not a professional writer by any stretch of the imagination, I thought now would be a good time to dip my toes in the blog waters. So here is my first post and an old pattern revamped!
I originally wrote this pattern in Dec of 2011. The pattern was a bit crude and without photos. It was also originally just a Google doc. Seemed to be the easiest way to create a pattern at the time. Recently I've stopped using social media. I deleted all of my accounts and have been pretty happy. I don't feel like I'm missing anything. I just feel a bit bored...
Felted & Non Felted Dryer Balls
For both options you will need:
2-2.5 oz scrap wool for inner ball in any weight (depending on your desired finished size)
Non-Felted (Felted) Dryer Ball
CO 8 (10) stitches
Thread cast on tail through yarn needle and thread through all stitches. This will allow you to cinch the end of the ball.
Row 1 (RS): kfb all stitches
Row 2 and all WS/even rows: sl1p, purl all stitches
Row 3: sl1p, kfb, *k1, kfb*
Row 5: sl1p, k1, kfb, *k2, kfb*
Row 7: sl1p, knit all stitches
Rows 8-16: repeat rows 2 & 7
Row 17: sl1p, k1, k2tog *k2, k2tog*
Row 19: sl1p, k2tog *k1, k2tog*
Row 21: k2tog
Finish by cutting yarn about 10” long. Thread tail through yarn needle and then thread through all 8 (10) stitches like you did at the beginning of the casing. Now put your wool ball inside of the casing and seam up the opening. Tie your ends together in a tight knot. Push your needle through the ball at a slant so it comes out the side. Pull yarn through snugly and clip excess. If you’re not felting, then you’re done!
If you are felting, add your finished dryer balls to a load of wash. Wash and dry them with your clothes. Do this again if necessary until the balls are sufficiently felted.
Here is an example of an 8 and 10 stitch cast on.
I used Paton’s wool roving for the inner ball. I used aran weight yarn from knit picks for the outer shell. In the photo comparing 8 & 10 stitch cast ons, the ball inside is almost exactly the same size. You can see that the 8 stitch cast on is snug and there are some gaps in the stitching. While this is not the most attractive, it will keep your inner ball snug and not allow it to unravel. The 10 stitch cast on is ideal for felting and looks fantastic when done. Here is an example of a 10 stitch cast on before and after felting. This shell was also made with a lighter worsted. So it doesn’t look as “snug” prior to felting like the aran yarn in the previous photos.
*Disclaimer: any links in this post to a purchasable item are affiliate links.
You won't pay anymore to purchase them.
I will get a small commission if you choose to purchase through my link.*
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